Austin: City...Limitless

The excitement I felt when I found out my spontaneous travel destination was Austin, was palpable.  It's as if Time Out New York Magazine and Booking.com knew that Austin, Texas was my spirit animal.  If you know my brand, Eat Travel Rock, at all; you're aware that I love to combine food and music...and of course travel, in any situation.  Well this was the ultimate trifecta.  Good times were about to be had...by one.  

I have traveled solo many times...for quick work trips.  I have never traveled on a solo vacation before, and I must say... I was pumped.  No one other that myself dictating when and where to go, what to see, what to eat.  The decision making began the evening before my flight when I actually found out that Austin was my destination.  I immediately went on the Booking Now app on my iPhone and began to search.  The ease and functionality was superior to ANY travel app I'd ever used.  Since Booking Now is for travel less than 48 hrs out,  I was a bit worried that desirable accommodations might not be readily available.  Incorrect.  The most luxurious hotels in town, as well as unique and boutique hotels were easy to find...and more importantly, affordable.  Many of the hotels even had discounts that were just for Booking.com and Booking Now customers.  I booked a gorgeous room at the JW Mariott in a matter of a minute and I was all set.  Ready to wing it in Austin!

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My view of the Colorado River from my JW Mariott room

When I arrived in Austin, and after I got settled into my glorious city center accommodations with a stunning view of the Colorado River... I got my game face on.  Fortunately, Time Out New York Magazine and Booking.com wanted me to explore the musical culture of the Live Music Capital of the World.  This was going to be fun, to say the least.  My first challenge was to "bear hug the unknown", and seek out a local record shop...one that is hidden or known only to locals.  I decided to walk down South Congress, or as the locals call it, SoCo.  I didn't let the 100 degree heat sway me from my mission.  I found a tiny little spot called Friends of Sound, and believe me, it was hidden.  First, I ventured off the main drag and down a little side street.  The sign said "entrance in alley"  So I walked down the alley...then around an old brick building... then around another corner. Finally, tucked away, was a vintage vinyl shop that was so perfectly and authentically Austin.  I shopped a bit and of course picked up some old school Country tunes like pre-outlaw Waylon Jennings and the Best of Johnny Cash.  I then cozied up to the manager to see if he had any great recs for where to see some live music.  Not just any live music, mind you... but my next challenge was to "scare myself silly"  and find a local gig that was well outside my musical comfort zone.  Well he and a fellow shopper gave me some great tips for where to find some great live shows that evening... shows that were not necessarily Eat Travel Rock friendly.  

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Friend of Sound Records

Later, I ventured out for my first ever solo "night out on the town".  It was great.  Amidst the hustle and bustle of buzzing 6th street in downtown Austin, I hardly felt alone.  The vibe was electric, and music was pouring out of every doorway and corridor. I was headed toward the Red Eyed Fly and it reached me before I reached it.  The music was LOUD... and joyfully angry sounding.  I asked the door guy to fill me in and he said the Death Metal show on the outside patio was $10.  SOLD!! Now, I'm usually very non-discriminating when it comes to Rock music.  I love it all.  But death metal has always been an enigma to me.  How can you even understand what they're saying with all that grunting and barking into the mic??? Plus it just seemed...scary! Well, I let go of all that and head banged with the best of them...with a Lone Star beer in hand.  The crowd seemed friendly and no one seemed to mind that I only had 15 tattoos instead of 50.  After a while, even though the music was starting to make my head hurt, I could see why people gravitated toward the overall vibe.  Death Metal will not likely be filling my iPod soon, but it was sure fun for 30 minutes.  

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Death Metal band at Red Eyed Fly

Next up, I wanted to venture even farther from 6th Street, and "abandon my compass".  I needed to find a Rock bar that was in a part of town unknown to me.  I found this tiny little run down club called Beer Land.  It was definitely off the beaten path and looked right up my alley (no pun intended).  They had a surfer-esque garage band on stage and they were totally my taste.  A cross between the Ventures and Green Day.  As I cozied up to my 2nd tall-boy of Lone Star, I sat back and realized how fortunate I was to be experiencing something so magical.  Not even 24 hrs before, I didn't even know I'd be in Austin.  Now here I am, sippin' on a cold one, and soaking up one of the coolest musical scenes on the planet.  Bless your heart Rock N' Roll.  

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Surfer-rock band at Beer Land

My final challenge was to find an iconic spot in town where a part of musical history occurred.  After some research, it became clear where I needed to visit.  Arlyn Studios is a place where music history has been made; over and over again.  This recording studio is not only the home studio of Willie Nelson, but many of my all-time favorites have recorded here: Waylon Jennings, Sublime, Neil Young, Snoop Dogg, Gary Clark Jr., Phish, and Merle Haggard, just to name a few.  Their history is rich, but even more impressive is what the music is made with/on.  Arlyn Studios possesses one of the few Neve recording consoles in existence.  If you saw Dave Grohl's documentary, Sound City, you would know the level of prestige and mystique this conveys.  Not only do they have a Neve console, but it is a Neve/API hybrid and the only one like it in the world.  As the gracious owner of Arlyn, Lisa Fletcher, explained to me..."It's like the Bentley and Rolls Royce of sound boards coming together."  I was lucky enough to have Lisa give me an after hours tour of the entire studio.  I couldn't get over the musical history that was in my presence.  She even let me "play" with the Neve console.  To touch the boards where some of the most significant albums in music history were made, was surreal. I could actually feel the pulse of all the sounds that have been flowing through that studio for decades.  It was an experience that will last a lifetime.  

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Me getting to touch history at Arlyn Studios

After all of my musical challenges were completed... it was time to EAT!! You didn't think I'd forget the food, did you?!  Here is a run down of some of my favorite Austin meals. Many of these recommendations came from locals as well as  Time Out Magazine Austin.  Lonesome Dove Western Bistro was first.  Wow.  Chef Tim Love's latest adventure in on point.  The menu is eclectic and represented by almost every animal species on earth... from duck to rattlesnake.  The food was outstanding, and since I was solo, they let me do a tasting of several of the dishes.  I would definitely say the best piece of fried catfish I'd ever had.  The staff was overly accommodating and friendly.  It was my happy place.  

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Foie Gras Ice Cream Lollipop at Lonesome Dove 

Next up was to satisfy my taco craving.  You can't go to Texas without filling up on this Tex-mex staple.  Torchy's Tacos was ALL i'd been hearing about and it was a must.  I took an Uber to this little trailer park lot and there was Torchy's. A cute little food trailer in a dusty parking lot surrounded by red picnic tables.  I actually had a fried avocado taco...my life will NEVER be the same.  It was taco heaven...in a trailer park.  

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Finally, I had my last meal at Odd Duck.  I could not hear enough about this James Beard Award nominated hot spot.  I also heard their brunch was spectacular, so that's what I went with.  Everything they serve is locally sourced and sustainable.  If you don't believe me, in the most serendipitous fashion, they sat me at the bar right next to Farmer Chris, who is actually the chicken farmer from whom they directly source their eggs.  My egg education is now on a loftier level... and the dishes I enjoyed at Odd Duck were next level.  It was one of those authentic experiences that can't be described, only felt.  I knew I was in a special place, away from the tourists and the hustle, where I could feel the true sense of this remarkable city.  My last bite and breath of Southern Texas before heading back to Chicago.  

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Needless to say, traveling solo may be my new favorite thing.  Not only was I able to learn so much more about Austin, its music, and its culture, but I was able to learn more about myself.  My sense of adventure is alive and well, and people and places (and music) that once seemed foreign or intimidating, are now welcomed and appreciated.  I'm so grateful for this quick journey, and even though i'm back in Chicago, in my comfort zone...Austin is already calling me back. 

History at My Fingertips- Arlyn Studios

Music history and nostalgia is almost as important to me as the music itself.  Fortunately, Austin has such a rich and diverse music history, the city pulsates with it.  One of my tasks to accomplish over my stay, given to me by Time Out New York Magazine and Booking.com, was to find a spot where something notable in music history occurred.  After doing some research, I discovered there was no better place for me to experience than Arlyn Studios.

Here's a small list of some of my favorite musicians who have recorded at Arlyn...Waylon Jennings, Willie Nelson, Neil Young, Bonnie Raitt, Jennifer Nettles, The Toadies, Snoop Dogg, Ray Charles, Phish, and Sublime.  Some other biggies include:  Wilco, Eli Young Band, Lorde, Merle Haggard, Les Paul, Gary Clark Jr., Coldplay, and Buddy Guy. Not a shabby line up.  

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Recognize this bad boy??

Arlyn Studios also boasts a one-of-a-kind vintage Neve console.  If you've ever seen Dave Grohl's documentary, Sound City, you would know that the Neve console is the holy grail of all mixing/recording consoles.  They are rare and have been out of production for decades.  Records from some of the world's most acclaimed artists such as, Nirvana (Nevermind), Neil Young, Fleetwood Mac (Rumors), and Tom Petty, were recorded on a similar console.  Arlyn's is actually a Neve and API hybrid... the only one like it in the world.  

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Neve/API hybrid boards at Arlyn Studios

I was fortunate enough to get a tour from the current owner, Lisa Fletcher, whose husband/co-owner is also Willie Nelson's nephew.  Her graciousness was only exceeded by her music knowledge.  After she poured me a Sunday-Funday cocktail, we began our tour.  First stop was the control room... and the Neve console.

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Touching history

Seeing this board was surreal; as I was looking at a piece of equipment that some of my favorite artists of all time, recorded their masterpieces on.  Sublime's entire 1996 self titled album was recorded on this board.  Unreal.  Not to mention some of Waylon's later works, Willie's current works, and dozens of others, many of whom are mentioned above.  

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I got a full history of the studio, as it has been transformed over the years from an opera house, to a recording studio, to a restaurant (part of it was), and finally was re-launched in 2012 to get back to its authentic heart and soul.  I absolutely cannot wait to come back and visit and see Arlyn Studios in action... see some tracks being laid down.  Hmmmm Austin City Limits is right around the corner... time to plan my next trip!!

Chicago Vs. Country Music???? (2012)

Chicago’s relationship with country music is quite an enigma.  Depending on where you are, and with whom, you will either discover that Chicago is the next best thing since Nashville….or you’ll hear crickets when you ask, “Hey, have you heard of  Jason Aldean?!”  For me, personally, I’ve been a country fan as long as I can remember…even growing up in Lake View.  Shockingly, my Sicilian immigrant father got me hooked on Waylon, Willie, Conway, The Gatlin Brothers, and the Oak Ridge Boys before I could even walk.  I think the first song I learned when I was two was, “Mamas, Don’t Let Your Babies Grow Up To Be Cowboys.”

Yet today, I have my friends divided into two groups: My country friends, and my non-country friends.  I know when I’m with my “country friends” I can put on the most obscure Garth Brooks, or the newest hit from Little Big Town, and they’ll know every word and turn whatever venue we’re at into our own little honky-tonk.  I also know when I’m with my “non-country friends”  I better not even mention how excited I am for the upcoming Zac Brown Band show, or god forbid play any Eric Church for them on my iPod.  I will, without a doubt, get the “How can you listen to that stuff?” or “Turn that redneck music off!!”

I believe this happens because in Chicago, it’s easy to go your entire life and not necessarily be exposed to country music.  This would NOT happen if you grew up or lived in the South.  You may not be country’s biggest fan, but you will damn sure be familiar with the genre.  In the Windy City, there are no fair-weather country fans.  I’ve noticed you’re either a “die-hard” or a “hater”.  Now, I’ve also noticed that the “haters” are people who just haven’t given country a chance.  Almost every “hater” I’ve encountered can easily be converted into a “die-hard” by listening to a few key crossover artists who can gingerly swing them over into the country-friendly realm.

Once you become a fan of country, Chicago is an amazing place to be.  We have the country’s BIGGEST country music radio station inUS99.5 (in terms of listenership…quite the accomplishment).  We are also a mega-hub for every country artist to appear… major and minor alike.  This is why our beloved Joe’s Bar is such a phenomenon.  It gives the “die-hards” a place to see their favorite artists up close and personal, yet also provides chance to experience up and coming artists.  It’s also the perfect venue for a “die-hard” to bring a “hater” friend for a non-threatening and eye-opening introduction to country music.  There is NO way the non-country lover will leave a show at Joe’s and say they didn’t have a blast and a new found appreciation for the genre they’ve been shying away from.

Clearly, the people at Joe’s, US99, and myself (wow, I’m in good company) have made it our mission to bring country music to the masses and to the forefront of our fair city.  It is a big undertaking, but fortunately, the music speaks for itself and does most of the work.  However, there is no better feeling of accomplishment than turning a “hater” into a “die-hard.”